Embroidered shoes are the unique costume art of the Chinese nation. The history of the craft can be pushed to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The Tang Dynasty made progress in the production techniques. After the Song Dynasty, it gradually developed in the folk, but now?
There is a saying in the saying: People eat food for the sky, so there is "China on the tip of the tongue." We don't discuss "China on the tip of the tongue" today. We have to listen to "China on the toe", and in the middle, What is the beautiful and moving story?
With the blue sky above the head and the foot on the ground, the shoes naturally become a necessity in our lives. With the improvement of living standards, we are very particular about its crafts, functions, designs, styles, colors and materials. In China, the special craftsmanship and production methods of ancient places in many places have given a soul and vitality to the food, and a pair of shoes with souls and stories are the same...
Embroidered shoes are the unique costume art of the Chinese nation. The history of the craft can be pushed to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (around 700 BC). It is prosperous with the development of the textile industry. The Tang Dynasty made progress in the production of crafts, Song Dynasty Later, it gradually became popular in the private sector; before the 1950s, embroidered shoes were used throughout the country in urban and rural areas and in various ethnic minority areas. It is now very difficult to find, and it can only be seen occasionally from the residual murals and archaeological excavations. Therefore, it is particularly important to excavate, sort, reproduce, reshape and transfer the skills.
Status: Embroidered shoes, the traditional craft that is about to disappear?
Nowadays, the topic of "traditional crafts that are about to disappear - hand-embroidered shoes" is getting more and more attention and attention from the society and the media:
(1) Jinan, Shandong: Traditional handicraft embroidered shoes that are about to disappear
On January 17, 2009, traditional handicraft children's embroidered cloth shoes sold in the suburbs of Jinan, Shandong. This kind of cloth shoes is also called "tiger head shoes" and "foot bun shoes". These shoes are complicated to work, and need to be made by various needlework techniques such as embroidery, flower arrangement, seeding, etc. The upper pattern is usually exaggeratedly embroidered with a tiger head. And a variety of colors, colorful and eye-catching.
Due to the complexity of the production process, few young people nowadays learn the production of such shoes, and the current children rarely wear such traditionally made handmade shoes. As time goes by, these shoes will gradually come from our lives. disappear.
(2) Zhuang embroidered shoes gradually disappearing
In Donglan County, Hechi City, Guangxi, several women bought Zhuang embroidered shoes on the stalls. With the rapid development of modern industry, embroidered shoes embodying the creative labor and emotional support of Zhuang women are gradually fading out of people's lives, and the production process of Zhuang embroidered shoes is gradually lost. At present, in the Zhuang settlements in Guangxi, only a few Zhuang people can master the techniques of embroidered shoes. They occasionally make one or two pairs and sell them on the street.
(3) The traditional skills of the out-of-print hand-embroidered shoes gradually disappearing
"In the age of my grandfather, the ladies and nobles of the famous aristocrats, warlords, and wealthy businessmen wanted to buy shoes. The masters took the uppers and cloths to the government, and they customized the embroidered shoes for them in the back garden of these rich people. The third generation of embroidered shoes in Ximending, the third generation of Mr. Chen Hongyi, described the situation of the rich ladies who bought shoes.
This small garden embroidered shoe, which is less crowded in the back of the Ximending area, was founded in 1936. Since its opening in 1949 from Shanghai to Taiwan, it has experienced the ups and downs of traditional industries and has placed several pairs in the store. Embroidered shoes that can no longer be produced, this is the product of the times that the father of the previous generation’s shop owner passed down. Now no one can make this type of shoes. In the era of no super glue and tailoring, it depends on the masters. One needle and one line rolled out of the shoe side gold wheel, one wood and one nail knocked out the bottom shoes leather. The hard work under the back is the past with the evaporation of sweat. Only these dozen pairs of embroidered shoes still retain the style of the times, now quietly Lying in the glass window, waiting for someone to come to the door, taste the collection, and preserve the beauty of the old times forever.
In addition to retaining traditional skills, the owner of the third generation of the store also knows how to make new clothes on the fabric, so that guests can wear embroidered shoes to wear clothes. The embroidered shoes sold outside are mainly made of nylon fabric, while the embroidered shoes of small gardens have satin. , tannins, brocade, hemp, cotton and denim, traditional materials and fashion design to create the richness of its style; shoe pattern is no longer limited to the past, representing the good fortune of dragons and phoenix, plum, plum and peony, now storefront There are also many flowers and popular sequins inlaid on the upper, and the new cheongsam buckle shoes, the Chinese classical style is available.
Nowadays, the shoes of various merchants are full of styles, the factories are shipped in large quantities, the traditional techniques are gradually reduced, and the small garden embroidered shoes still inherit the Chinese culture. At the earliest, the concept of opening a shop from my grandfather to my father is now handed to the boss: "Nobody, I have, people, I am special, people are special, I am excellent." The future boss will pass this sentence to the Learn to take care of the store's daughter, let the old craftsmanship, the old shoe store, with a pair of beautiful embroidered shoes, under the gale of modern fashion trends, still have to step out of their own way.
Wang Guanqin: To embroider China on the toe
Wang Guanqin is the inheritor of Chinese traditional embroidered shoes culture. In the past 20 years, she has been obsessed with embroidered shoes, looking for inspiration in literary classics, and has produced hundreds of pairs of embroidered shoes of various dynasties and various national styles. The old man said that she would embroider China on the toe.
The picture shows the old man Wang Guanqin
Influenced by his ancestors, Wang Guanqin began to learn embroidered shoes from an early age. When she was a child, she didn't beat her in order to learn embroidered shoes, but she also helped her to develop a solid foundation of "flying needles like Yan". After retiring in 1994, Wang Guanqin devoted himself to the production of embroidered shoes like a demon. Due to long-term sitting embroidered shoes and reading ancient books, Wang Guanqin's lumbar vertebrae had problems. Because of the tired eyes, her vision has also had problems. Although her family did not understand it, she never gave up. She said: "Embroidered shoes are like my children, I can't give it up."
It is also because she regards embroidered shoes as her own children. Although many people have proposed to buy works by the elderly, she insists that “only embroidered and not soldâ€. She said that she wants to preserve the image of ancient shoes that she has recovered from her painstaking efforts, leaving a model for future generations to follow. Because embroidered shoes are not only a shoe, it is mainly embodied in our Chinese culture, so this must be culturally passed down.
Wang Guanqin used "sea fishing needle" to describe her journey of searching for the culture of embroidered shoes. The four famous classics, Tang poetry and Song poetry, and opera have become the inspiration for the creation of the elderly. One of the old man's proud works, "Feng Tou" is inspired by the phrase "Qin Shihuang's Three Commandments, Three Heads, and Nine Pieces". She said, “Embroidered shoes are a state of self-forgetfulness. The feelings are particularly comfortable. The works created when the mind is peaceful are more spiritual and more charming.â€
Wang Guanqin is known as the “Master of Embroidered Shoes Design Craftsmanshipâ€. In 2007, she was awarded the representative inheritance of intangible cultural heritage by Beijing. From 2010, she was invited to create works on embroidered shoes in the series of intangible cultural heritage books. It records the craftsmanship and historical origins of the elderly for many years. It has been called “China on the toeâ€. In 2014, she published the Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Series “Embroidered Shoes Making Techniquesâ€, which triggered a wide range of society. attention.
In the embroidered shoes studio of Wang Guanqin's old man, there are nearly 300 pairs of embroidered shoes with different characteristics and styles, including the dragon boots worn by the emperor and the crested hunters worn by the harem. In addition, the Han Dynasty's hooks, the five dynasties of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the female officials of the Tang Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty's geek shoes, everything. The embroidered shoes made by Mr. Wang pay attention to the color matching of the embroidery thread and the upper, the shoe mouth and the sole. Combining the traditional and modern styles of the city and the country, and the combination of embroidery and embellishment, the embroidered shoes have a three-dimensional beauty. The style is unique, the concept is ingenious, the color matching is harmonious, the workmanship is exquisite, and it has a strong traditional charm and a beautiful and beautiful appearance, showing the luxurious, elegant and rich style features. Her embroidered shoes are divided into sunsets (old age), brides, costumes and other series. The works have certain value in history, culture, art and collection.
For the traditional craft that is about to disappear - hand-embroidered shoes, what will its future development path be? The practice of Wang Guanqin's old man is a good interpretation, protecting the cultural heritage of embroidered shoes, combining traditional and modern styles, she She said that she will then walk into the campus and give more students the knowledge of embroidered shoes, so that everyone can not only learn the skills, but also combine the material and culture to truly carry forward the Chinese tradition.
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